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Blue Bobbles Sale *BOTH BATS SOLD *Updated #5*

Paul77

By Paul77,
in Milwaukee Brewers Talk

Paul77 Draft Eligible

Paul77

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EDIT # 5: Corey Hart bat is gone, 2004 bat is gone. Bobbles are gone to ebay. Gorman is still available for the time being. Thanks so much to everyone who PM'ed me and showed interest.

Some of you may know about my sons baseball collection. It will one day rival my own. Anyhow, these are my sons extras. He's looking to sell, not trade. He's trying to raise some funds to buy Christmas presents. The only catch is he doesn't want cash. He wants to be paid by paypal so he can shop online (his choice). He's only 10 so I'm acting as his middle man.

 

Blue Robin Yount (2007)

Blue Ben Ogilvie (2007)

Blue Pete Vuckovich (2007)

Blue Gorman Thomas (2004 - Full size)

 

I've saved all of his boxes so the bobbles should come with their original box. They may not have the plastic/foam inserts (I'll look).

 

I bought the Gorman as a birthday gift from a fellow board member this summer. He got another one recently as an early Christmas gift and is parting with this one. The bill of the cap was broke off at some point and glued on before we bought it. There is a white glue residue on the cap now, mostly on the bottom. Pictures available upon request.

 

He has two bats he wants me to put up as well. He might be willing to part with the following.

 

Corey Hart Autographed Louisville Slugger Model M110, 34 inches. Game Used but without Harts name on the bat. Purchased 3 years ago when he was in the Minors.

 

Team signed 2004 Rawlings Pro Model Big Stick Bat, 32 inches. Not game used. Purchased specifically to get signed. Looks like it's got about 20+ sigs on it. Bill Hall, Ned Yost, Matt Wise, Brady Clark, Lyle Overbay among the highlights.

 

Make offers (by PM please) on anything if you'd like. I can't say how long he'll wait before putting them up on ebay. He'd like to avoid the ebay fees. Smart kid (he sold about 70 playstation games on ebay a few months ago and was quite surprised at how quickly ebay fees can add up). I suggested posteing them here.

 

Can arrange pick up at Pick N Save in Pewaukee (Capital Drive) or at Brookfield Square. I can ship them out if necessary at an addition cost.

 

 

Edit: #2. Just since last night I'm surprised (though I guess I shouldn't have been) with all the interest the Hart bat has received. As requested by two people, here are pictures of the bat. Might not show up real well but the bat has a light bit of pine tar and a small crack in the handle.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v454/ilookback/IMG_0048.jpg

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v454/ilookback/IMG_0045.jpghttp://img.photobucket.com/albums/v454/ilookback/IMG_0046.jpg

 

The silver ring around the bat in the last picture is a bat holder (for mounting to the wall)

 

 

 

EDIT #3 As requested here are photos of the Gorman bobble. Like I said the glue damage is mostly under the bill of the cap. But there is a little bit on the cap as well. See photos.

 

 

The crack is more pronounced than it appears in this photo. I don't want anyone to think I'm trying to hustle them.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v454/ilookback/IMG_0064.jpg

 

 

Looking at this bobble head on you can't tell the underside looks like this. You need to tilt it all the way back to notice.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v454/ilookback/IMG_0065.jpg

20Fry : April 2006 - March 2012
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Paul77 Draft Eligible

Paul77

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The answer is yes on both counts. It's just a hobby of mine. I'm not nearly as good as some of the other guys out there, but those guys don't seem to focus much attention on the Brewers so I thought I'd try it out.
20Fry : April 2006 - March 2012
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MelGroceryStocker College Ball

MelGroceryStocker

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I don't understand how you can make something look so perfect like that? I mean the name on the jersey looks outstanding. Do you start with a figure of a different player and repaint or what? I'm dying to hear how you go about doing that ... specifically how you made the Braun. Be as detailed as you like, I'm really impressed.

 

What others have you made?

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Paul77

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Ok. Well it's like you said. I find base figures to start with. In some cases you need to swap out arms and heads with other figures until you get a good base that resembles who ever your trying to make. After you make those choices and get all the parts together you break the figure down into as many parts as possible. It makes painting later easier. Then you need to make any adjustments for the figures. For the Yount it meant shaving down the pant legs because I needed to paint on socks and stirrups where as the base figures had baggy pant legs that went all the way down to the shoe.

 

Before, pants & Wrinkles...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v454/ilookback/01---wrinkles.jpg

 

After, smoothed out socks.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v454/ilookback/02---sanded-ankle.jpg

 

Then to have to prime everything. You want to start with a blank figure.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v454/ilookback/02---primed.jpg

 

The next few steps are painting. Painting pants and jersey are easy. It's the details that can easily turn into a disaster. I've completely ruined more than a couple of figures at this step. The sleeves and pant stripes are killers, at least for me. It takes a steady hand and lots of good quality brushes, good paints (and luck?) to get decent looking stripes.

 

The logos are a combination of painting and film overlays. The film is extremely thin, so thin and you have such little transfer time that just the slight breeze from moving it can cause it to curl up and be wasted. They are also small (trim as much of the negative space away as possible. It's much harder to work with, but you get sub par [bad] results if you don't) so you have to handle the decal film with tweezers. The decal film is hard to come by so they charge accordingly (Hobbytown USA charges $10 for 6 small sheets). I ordered some on ebay and was severely disappointed with the results.

 

To use the decal film you need the good printer and an image editing software. I use Photoshop. It's great, flexible. This is where painting skill gives way to photo editing skill. For example, I have a font pack for every MLB team. What I didn't have was a high quality "Milwaukee" script that was accurate to the time period (1992). So the "Milwaukee" you see on the jersey was made in photoshop. Not one person I talked to could find the correct script with the tail underneath the word Milwaukee. I was working on a Huntsville Stars figure recently and I had to created a custom font package completely from scratch that matched the Stars jerseys.

 

Applying the decal film is a bit tricky, but it basically involves the following steps. You paint the base figure, leaving a empty spot where the overlays will go. You print your decal film, spray it with a special sealant and let it set for a few hours. Then to wet the film to release it from it's backing. You need to apply to more solvents at this stage. Ones called Micro sol, the other Micro set. Then you transfer the film to your figure and use a dry brush to gently push the decals into all the nooks and crannies. This is seriously where you can make or break a figure. If you apply it at a wrong angle or you apply it with an fold in it - your screwed. I use the word "decal", but that's misleading. These are one shot deals. You get it right the first time or you just wasted a bit of paper (film = $$) and a couple of hours. Assuming you get the film in place you let it dry and then finish painting around the decal. This means getting a fine point brush and painting up to and on top of the negative space on the film. At this point you painting on a slippery surface (film) so you need to take extra caution not to let paint run over the good part of your decal.

 

Also the decals are clear, so even though I used a ball and glove logo "decal" on the helmet, I needed to first paint the logo in white before I apply the "decal".

 

It's a difficult step but the result is outstanding. The "Fielder" nameplate & number on the figure below turned out great. I applied each individual letter to create the arc of the current uniforms. (note, that's an UNFINISHED Yount in the back)

 

http://images.myphotoalbum.com/m/my/myb/mybr/mybre/mybrewers/albums/album01/104_2231.sized.jpg

 

After you get everything painted and do all the touch ups you need to let it dry and seal it with a clear acrylic sealant. You could use the standard base that comes with any McFarlane but I prefer to jazz it up a little bit. The base below started out as plastic Mcfarlane grass. I turned it into a base path with the help of multiple coats of spray adhesive, brown ballast sand and a sealant. The result is a, IMO, more natural dirt look. Apply a thin layer of adhesive to the bottom of the shoe, "walk him" through the ballast and you get a dirt in cleats look.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v454/ilookback/finished6.jpg

 

 

I can knock out a figure out in about 3 days if I dedicate large blocks of time to it. More often than not though it takes me a week or more because, like I said - it's a hobby (although I need to get myself in gear because I'm making a couple for Christmas gifts.)

 

Once you get the initial costs out of the way (base figures, paints, primer, clear coat, decal film, solvents, brushes, knives, tape, various glues, ballast, etc... ) you'll be set for a few months, though you'll need to do some smaller restocking along the way. Because of the start up costs, you've got to commit to it fully. I almost gave up after me first couple of figures resulted in terrific failures. After the girlfriend gave me the "stop wasting money" speech I finally started to get the hang of it. I happen to find it an odd mix of stress and relaxation. I think it helps that I used to customize toys back in the day so I had some ideas to start with.

 

I think thats a basic overview. I'm sure I'm missed something. I haven't wrote that much on this board ever.

20Fry : April 2006 - March 2012
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