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Advice/recommendations for buying a car - again


RyDogg66

Hey guys, about 13 months ago I posted a similar question, only it was about the need for a mini-van. I got a lot of good responses and have been happy with the Town and Country I ended up with. Well, it is time to finally call it a career for the 1994 Honda Accord with 235k miles and no working spedometer. I could probably get another 100k miles out of it, but it's time to upgrade.

 

First question is regarding the types of cars I am looking at. Something 2002 or newer, 4 door sedan. I have been thinking about a Hyundai, possibly a Sonata or an Elantra, maybe even a Santa Fe. I know they used to have bad reputations, but Ive heard they are making them much better now. What do you all think about Hyundai's, and more importantly...

 

I travel about 500-600 Miles a week, so I am gonna pile the miles on this thing. Im looking to get 5 years out of it.

 

Next, I am trading in my Honda, 1.) anyone know of any push pull and drag sales where you get good (minimum) trade in value for your car (say 3-5k) and 2.) what is the catch with those deals - they cannot be as good as they sound??

 

Im gonna start doing some research on my own so I will probably come back with more specific questions. Looking to spend less than 10k.

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I personally do not have a favorable opinion of Hyundai. However, I've talked to dealers (not in the context of car shopping, some were friends of mine) who said just what you did about their quality having really increased in the past few years. If you're into imports and really want to beat the crap out of it in terms of mileage, I personally think that Nissan and Mazda are very underappreciated because everyone brags up Honda and Toyota, inflating their resale value. I don't know anyone who had a Nissan that prematurely crapped the bed on them.
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If you have a beater, a push pull or drag is the way to go. I know Kocourek Chevrolet in Rib Mountain has one fairly often where you get $5 K minimum trade-in, there might be a dealership in your neck of the woods with something similar. Typically they have those in a buyer's market, like winter time. With your Accord, you're obviously not going to get that in a normal situation.

 

I second MSC's recommendation of the Mazda or Nissan route. I personally haven't owned one, but my mom bought a used Mazda over 5 years ago that had a ton of miles on it, and it's still going and hasn't needed any major repairs at all. She commutes probably about 300 miles a week for work.

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I have a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe and my wife has a 2004 Hyundai Sonata that we both purchased new. We have not had any issues with either of our cars. I have about 69K miles on mine, she has about 55k on hers. Consumer Reports really likes Hyundai's, especially the Santa Fe. I also don't treat cars very well. I drive a lot in rush hour traffic and I'm somewhat of an aggresive driver...but like I said, no problems so far.

 

I guess my only issues with the cars is how much the dealers really push for you to get the 15K, 30K, 60K, etc scheduled maintenance at about $500-$600 a pop. My wife and I have not done any of these....just the normal oil changes.

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Im definitely zeroing in on a Hyundai. From what I have read on my own research, since about 2001 they've really stepped it up and have been producing much better vehicles, plus the 10 yr. 100k mile warranty is nice.

 

I just wonder how it will preform from miles 150k-199k, if it comes to that. which if I stay at my current job, it might.

 

For example, I spent some time on the phone with some guy from Boucher Hyundai/Chevy in Waukesha today. I might be trading in my car there. I saw a 2002 Hyundai Santa Fe for 7,995, with 86k miles. What's the gas mileage like on those things.

 

I'll probably end up with an Elantra. I like Nissan and Mazda more, but they seem to be more expensive.

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Brett...question about the push, pull, or drag sale. I hear it advertised on the radio occasionally and always wondered how it worked. So basically they give you $5,000 towards the purchase of a new vehicle for ANY used vehicle you have regardless of condition? Seems too good to be true.
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RE: Push pull and drag.

 

Ive never done it, because Ive never traded in a car to get a new one, but as I understand it this option is usually only available for new cars or used cars above a certain amount, and $5,000 is the high end of those deals. most are between 3-4k. There probably less room to "haggle" as well.

 

I too have wondered how the car dealers make out on those, as my gut tells me it isnt nearly as good a deal as it sounds for the consumer.

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Typically, prices are really jacked up for those sales. First, the car will need to be priced higher than a certain amount to be eligible($9-10k seems typical), and second, there seems to be a no-haggle price. I remember going to a couple of those sales and the price was the high end of retail blue book, maybe a grand or two more than another dealership. Then, you figure that you can talk the other dealership down by a grand, and they're really not giving you much for your trade. Nobody can give you a ton in trade unless the sticker price would bring in a huge profit.

 

I've definitely found way better deals elsewhere, like cheaper independent dealerships or autotrader.

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The Hyundai's generally come with a pretty good warranty and I have also heard they have become more reliable. However, that statement really doesn't mean much. Hyundai's in the past would be lucky to make it to 75,000 miles and it should be pretty easy to be "more reliable" than that.

The main concern I have with Hyundai's is their resale value is pathetic. However, it seems like you're one to buy a car and drive it to death, which may not cause as much concern. At the same time, if you want a car to drive to death I'd suggest paying the extra $ for a Honda as there is no way you will ever get over 150,000 on a Hyundai and you'd be driving that Civic twice as long as a Hyundai.

I drive a '2004 Mazda 6 that I bought brand new 3+ years ago. I haven't had any problems, but I have only put 17,000 miles on it in the time I've had it.

 

 

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I'd suggest paying the extra $ for a Honda as there is no way you will ever get over 150,000 on a Hyundai and you'd be driving that Civic twice as long as a Hyundai.
What makes you so sure that you can't get 150K on a Hyundai? I think the way cars are made now, it's not impossible to get that kind of milage on just about any make of car. The quality of Hyundai's made over the last 5 years or so has improved greatly

 

By the way RyDogg. Boucher in Waukesha is where my wife and I purchased our cars. Other than than the badgering about the milage maitnance intervals that I mentioned, they are pretty good. Actually they go a little overboard sometimes. Whenever we get calls afterwards asking about the service. While I appreciate the service effort, it can get a little annoying.

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I heard on the Clark Howard show the other day (yea... listening to the radio all day turns you to talk) that Buick was actually named the most reliable car this past year, with Honda and Toyota both falling to 7th and 8th. My theory on this is that the type of car you purchase has less to do with its reliability as the quality of care you give your car. If you are religious with oil changes, filter changes, transmission and coolant flushes, etc., you will have a good car. My theory on Toyota and Honda's fall has less to do with the quality of their cars and more with the demographic of those purchasing them (Civics and Corollas are considered somewhat cool by youngins).

 

I worked at an oil change for 7 years (through HS and college) and the cars that lasted the longest were those that we saw the most (frequent, timely service). If you like a Hyundai or Kia (they are the same car), I'd say go for it.

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I heard on the Clark Howard show the other day (yea... listening to the radio all day turns you to talk) that Buick was actually named the most reliable car this past year, with Honda and Toyota both falling to 7th and 8th.
What is "reliable" though? I like imports because they seems to last the longest (over 150K miles). I had a Toyota Corolla that just would not die. A lot of the new measurements regarding quality and reliability is in regards to the defect in the first 10,000 miles or something like that. I know in that regard, Chevy and Ford are right up towards the top with all of the imports. But that doesn't mean they will last the longest.

 

And frankly, I don't care too much about defects within the first so many miles - because it is under warranty at that point. I was it to be reliable when the warranty has expired.

 

In regards to the push pull or drag sales they are overrated. Do you honestly think I can take an old beater worth about $50 and get $5000 worth of value for it? All of the cars are marked up accordingly to adjust for the trade in value. Whether you trade in a car or not - the dealer would be willing to give you the discount if you negotiated. Once you trade in, then you are pretty much at the set price.

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it also depends on your engine type. V8's and 4 bangers last longer then 6's. As someone who has been around car sales and has a dad who bought and sold cars to dealers, here is some advice.

 

-little advice, go to two different dealers of the same car, get different qoutes and play each dealer off of each other.

 

-be willing to walk away. Go in with a price you are willing to pay(within reason), if they arent willing to get close, stand up, say thank you and walk away, but leave your number, they will call you.

 

-Never and i repeat never buy the after market warranty, undercoating, or the stuff the finacer will try to sell you, its a waste of money. They will try to tell you that they can only do certain work at the dealer ship, its a lie.

 

-There is no such thing as a certified used car. There is no organization or standards that are set up that used cars suppose to judged by.

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I have an 04 Elantra with around 60k miles (bought new). The only mechanical problem I've had with it was the throttle, which was fixed under warranty. The only thing I don't like is the trunk overhang, which I have a tendency to bang my head on when reaching deep into the trunk. The paint job seems a little thin as it scratches easily. Still, it's a lotta bang for the buck and I would get one again.
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Other advise:

 

-If they ask if you have a trade-in, say no (even if you do). Then negotiate to the price you want. After that, tell them you have a trade in.

 

-If you are buying new, find out what the dealer paid for the car (there are several web sites that can give you this information) and negotiate from there. It helps if you actually come into the dealer with a folder of "homework". Let the dealer know that you are prepared. Although, he/she will probably tell you that the cost numbers are wrong..so if you can get the numbers from 2 or 3 sites, that's helpful.

 

-Ditto jwill535's advise regarding walking away. You always have to walk away from a dealer at least once.

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in regards to warranties, it depends on the type of work you can do. Even though he doesnt do that anymore, my dad is ASE certified from years ago and i know how to fix alot of stuff, so basically all i have to pay for is parts or we have a shop guy that is a good mechanic and again all i need to do is have my wife bake him cookies and pay for the parts.

-Never become married to a car, before you buy it i mean. There are tons of different cars out there, dont pay more because its the one you really really want.

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